Venice, it’s magical. There is no place like it in the world, and I get a mushy feeling of love just thinking about it! Go there…now!
We arrived in Venice in December via a three-hour bus ride from Ljubljana. Rome2Rio provided us with the shortest mode of transportation and the bonus was the beautiful snow kissed trees and mountains that we saw along the way.
It was a little overwhelming upon arrival and this was off season. I located an information desk and a super helpful clerk told us which vaporetto (water bus) to take, which stop to get off and recommended a pass that will save a substantial amount of money if you plan to use the water bus often (we chose a 48 hour version). There are signs everywhere to watch your bags in these crowded areas and on the water buses. We did not encounter crowds because we were there in December, so we traded the cold for the crowds and it was worth it!
(I loved using the free Che Bateo? Vaporetti a Venezia app which gives the user the public water bus timetable and the best routes to take. You simply put in your departure station and your destination station and it will identify which water bus to take, the time it leaves, how many stops until your destination and when you will arrive.)
I like to stay in a more residential area away from the tourists. You truly get a feel for the location when you do this and you pay less for your hotel. Such a win!
We stayed in Cannaregio at Venice Hotel near Ghetto | Hotel Ai Mori d’Oriente Official Site (morihotel.com) . We took our vaporetto to stop Madonna Orto and had about a 6 minute walk to our hotel. (Google maps did a great job guiding us.) I can’t say enough about how wonderful this hotel was: luxurious, excellent craftmanship, impeccable rooms and outstanding front desk staff and bar staff.
Our rooms weren’t quite ready so the front desk recommended we walk to Ristorante Due Fratelli RISTORANTE DUE FRATELLI, Venice – Cannaregio – Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Reservations – Tripadvisor for our first meal in Venice. I vowed to eat seafood while here, so I ordered fresh local caught Seafood and homemade pasta and my Gent ordered the Cuttlefish ink spaghetti. We also ordered a salami pizza and 20 € bottle of house red wine. This was a delicious culinary start to our trip!
Because we were there in December, it does get dark around 4:30 and the wind and cold really make traveling on the water quite chilly. The water busses are not heated inside but there is shelter from the elements. Dress appropriately and you will be fine. To get a lay of the land we took Rick Steve’s Canal Tour that starts at vaporetto stop #1. These audio tours are great, just download the Rick Steves Audio Europe app to your phone and download the tours that you want so that you can listen to them offline. Free and so informative!
After our tour we went to Opera in Venice – Musica Palazzo to see The Barber of Seville. This is a traveling opera which takes place in one of Venice’s most fascinating palaces: Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto (originated in the 17th century). This is the perfect introduction to opera as there are only about 100 attendees and the audience changes rooms three times instead of set changes on a stage. During the first intermission, there was even complimentary Prosecco. You feel like part of the show since the performers interact with the audience and may even sit on your lap! This show was 95€ a person paid in cash at the door. Be sure to make your reservation well in advance as this sells out nightly!
We went back to our beautiful hotel and even though the bar was closed they gladly offered us a cocktail to take to our room. The perfect ending to our first day in this magical place.
The next day we took the water bus to San Marco and St. Mark’s Square where we had reservations (make them or you will risk not getting in or spending the majority of your day in line) for a 9:30 entry into Basilica San Marco.
We arrived early, so found coffee and a yummy breakfast croissant sandwich in one of the many cafes in the square. I just adore the people watching and the dog watching. The dogs are as stylish as their owners, dressed in coats and sweaters and are welcome in all establishments.
Our entry time came, and we went to the Basilica where we rented the basic audio tour. Keep in mind, it was very cold in the church. While we were there, we witnessed a mass taking place at one of the side pulpits. The artistry, elegance and attention to detail captivated us for over an hour.
Next up, we had an 11:30 entry time into Secret Itineraries Tour at Doge’s Palace | Tickets and Bookings (visitmuve.it). Do this! We were given access to secret rooms that a self guided tour would not have allowed. Our tour guide was fantastic and so full of life and knowledge. Among many others, she led us into the Doge’s office, into the attic where they had a huge collection of arms, to see the many prison cells and even to look inside Casanova’s cell. After we took the tour we were able to see the rest of Doge’s Palace on our own (included with our secret itineraries ticket).
We left San Marco and all of the tourists to check out another area in Venice: Castello. I heard about a fun bookstore here called libreria Acqua alta – All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos) (tripadvisor.com) and it did not disappoint. There are old bathtubs, boats and even cats in this unique and eclectic bookstore.
By now, we were ready for our next meal and happened upon Ristorante Da Carletto – Ristorante (business.site). What a beautiful, charming little place. We started with an antipasto platter of the freshest meats and I again had seafood spaghetti (did I mention that I was going to have all the seafood?!). My Gent had gnocchi and it was bathed in a beautiful red sauce. Another fabulous meal in Venice!
We needed to walk off all of that food so we took some time to get lost. We passed gondolier operators who weren’t very busy due to the cold weather, Christmas trees being unloaded off a boat (everything comes in by boat) and many little cafes filled with happy and boisterous patrons. Eventually, we made it back to our neighborhood and couldn’t pass up the inviting atmosphere, so were drawn into a couple of little wine shops to try some ciccheti. (Ciccheti are little foods to nibble on like a small open faced sandwich.) It is very common to pop into a little shop for a glass of wine and 2-3 ciccheti and then move on to another shop and do it all over again. This is how we ended our trip and our second night in Venice by living like a Venetian in our little local neighborhood.
Arrivederci Venezia, until next time because there will be a next time!
